Skincare fundamentals

A short, unglamorous routine done consistently beats an elaborate one done sporadically. Almost everything else is marketing.

Skincare is one of the most heavily marketed categories in retail, and the marketing has an obvious incentive: to make you believe the answer is one more product. It very rarely is. The fundamentals are few, cheap, dull and genuinely effective.

Sunscreen: the one that matters most

Ultraviolet radiation is the principal cause of premature skin ageing and a major cause of skin cancer. If you do only one thing from this page, do this one — everything else is optimisation at the margins.

• Yes, in the UK. Yes, in winter. Yes, when it is cloudy. UVA, which drives ageing, penetrates cloud and passes through window glass. The British habit of treating sunscreen as a holiday product is why so much sun damage accumulates without anyone noticing.
• Use SPF 30 as a minimum, ideally 50, with high UVA protection. On UK packaging, look for the UVA logo in a circle, or a high star rating.
• Most people apply far too little. The often-quoted guide for the face is roughly two fingers' length of product. Being scrupulous about a factor 50 and applying a fifth of the required amount gives you nothing like factor 50.
• Reapply every two hours when outdoors, and after swimming or sweating.
• Do not forget ears, neck, the back of the hands and the tops of the feet.
• Shade and clothing are not a lesser option — they are the most reliable protection there is.

Cleansing

Twice a day, morning and evening, with a gentle cleanser and lukewarm water. Remove make-up and sunscreen properly at night — a double cleanse (an oil or balm to dissolve, then a gentle wash) works well if you wear heavy make-up or high-SPF sunscreen.

The mistakes to avoid: hot water, harsh foaming cleansers, vigorous scrubbing, daily use of abrasive scrubs, and stripping the skin until it feels tight. That tight feeling is not cleanliness. It is a damaged skin barrier, and it is the underlying cause of a great deal of the sensitivity and irritation people then buy more products to fix.

Moisturising

Moisturiser supports the skin barrier and reduces water loss. Every skin type benefits, including oily skin — stripping oily skin only prompts it to produce more.

• Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) draw in water.
• Emollients (ceramides, squalane) smooth and repair the barrier.
• Occlusives (petrolatum, dimethicone) seal water in.

Match the texture to your skin: gel or light lotion for oily skin, richer cream for dry. Price correlates poorly with efficacy. Some of the most effective moisturisers on the market cost very little.

Active ingredients, and how to introduce them

• Retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde, prescription retinoic acid). The best-evidenced topical ingredient for fine lines, texture and acne. They also irritate. Start with a low strength, twice a week, at night, and build up over weeks — not days. Expect a period of dryness and flaking. Use sunscreen the next day without exception. Not to be used in pregnancy or while breastfeeding — speak to a GP or pharmacist.
• Vitamin C. An antioxidant, used in the morning under sunscreen; it may help with brightness and uneven tone. It oxidises easily — if the serum turns brown or orange, it has degraded.
• Niacinamide. Well tolerated, supports the barrier, may help with redness and oiliness. A sensible first active for reactive skin.
• Exfoliating acids. AHAs (glycolic, lactic) work on surface texture and tone; BHA (salicylic) is oil-soluble and better suited to congested, spot-prone skin. Once or twice a week is plenty for most people.

The rule that prevents nearly every skincare disaster: introduce one new active at a time, and give it at least two weeks before adding another. If you pile on four new products and your skin reacts, you will have no idea which one to blame — and you will have destroyed your barrier finding out.

Common myths

• "Expensive means better." No. Formulation and consistency determine results; the price largely reflects packaging and marketing.
• "If it tingles, it's working." Tingling is irritation.
• "Oily skin doesn't need moisturiser." It does.
• "You can shrink your pores." Pore size is largely genetic. You can keep pores clear, which makes them look smaller. You cannot change their diameter.
• "Natural means safe." Lemon juice on the skin causes chemical burns and pigmentation. Many essential oils are potent sensitisers.
• "A tan is healthy." A tan is the visible evidence of DNA damage. See the tanning guide.

When to see a doctor rather than a salon

Moderate to severe acne, rosacea, eczema, persistent rashes, recurring reactions, and any mole that changes in size, shape or colour are matters for a GP or a dermatologist. Skin conditions are medical conditions, and no facial or serum is the appropriate treatment for them.

See also treatments explained, spray tanning and choosing a salon. Back to the homepage.

Independent guide. General information only, not medical advice.